Swedish Clefs and Wartime Oompah

DAY FOUR – THURSDAY 15th SEPTEMBER – EVENING I wasn’t joking when I mentioned starting the evening with some light chamber music. I’d considered a night at the Opera – but frankly the Opera House is a bit of a trek across town. Plus the words would be in Japanese or whatever language they use for opera….

Stockmann, Aching and Waterman

DAY FOUR : Thursday 15th September I’ve managed to wake up early today – and I’ve seen something incredible. Not long after sunrise, Tallinn actually had some sunshine. It looked like a perfect day for exploring a bit of Estonia’s coastline. And then it started raining again. Fortunately, my Tour Bus ticket last for 24…

Time Warp Tallinn

DAY THREE : Wednesday 14th September There are worse things to have named after you than a park. Much worse things, I reckon. After a lifetime of service to your country, the last thing you want to remembered for is having your name on something too small, like a memorial stone that dogs pee all over…

Your Lux In

NIGHT TWO – TUESDAY 13th SEPTEMBER “Serge Gainsbourg – you might know him… he’s a famous French composer?” Greg Lami’s got a tough crowd tonight, at least when it comes to their musical knowledge. I think I’m the only customer in the Von Krahl bar who knows who Serge Gainsbourg is. Then again, I only really know him…

Too Wet To Woo

DAY TWO – TUESDAY 13th SEPTEMBER I’m not really the suspicious type. When it comes to numbers I don’t really associate 13 with being unlucky. But it’s the 13th of the month, and I appear to have landed in Tallinn during the little-known Baltic Monsoon season. The weather today has gone from bright and sunny…

A Taste of Home

MONDAY 12th SEPTEMBER – NIGHT “You know, I don’t care much for real ale. I can’t stand beer that’s served warm.” It’s the kind of line that might well land a punch from me. Or at least a glare. And I’m very good at glaring. But I could forgive Bobby, as (a) it’s the first…

Tallin’s Got Britons

MONDAY 12th SEPTEMBER – EVENING OK, I’m probably going to run out of puns about Tallinn before this blog ends, so I thought I may as well get them out of the way sooner rather than later. Tallin’s airport terminal looks like a giant Toblerone with two shoe boxes at either end, which is apt – as…

Buy Fi? Bog Off?

There are many things I love about travel, but airports aren’t one of them. As a child I loved the excitement of going to the check in desk, getting a special card with your name on it, and having it re-checked and scanned by various staff along the way. That was pre-9/11, and – if…

I’m Tallinn You Now

DAY ONE : THURSDAY 12th SEPTEMBER After several months of radio blogs, it’s nice to be back on the travel side of things – and this time it involves three of my favourite things : Eastern Europe, beer and just a little bit of kitsch. Yep – Tallinn may have been on the map in some…